Back down the rabbit hole

Hey!  Who pushed me down the rabbit hole?  I wasn’t quite ready to leave the comforts of my home, my friends, my running water, and glorious food.

I followed that darn cute rabbit again.  This time I knew what I was getting into and yet, I still stood over that hole, peering down, not quite sure what to do, wanting to take the leap, until someone had the nerve to push me.  Johnee, I know it was you.  And that adorable rabbit looked so much like Dillon…

So off we go again!

Down, down, down we go

After a somewhat nail-biting travel adventure, I arrived in Lomé.  Um, having to connect onto a flight through Ghana clearly reminded me that I had arrived in West Africa; my flight wasn’t existent anywhere I looked, so I had to run around the airport dragging all my luggage to find an answer.  At one point I was so deflated, I left my luggage with a girl at the “information desk” so I could run around more efficiently.  I honestly didn’t care if it was stolen because I was desperate to get to Togo.

Since I didn’t have a Ghana VISA or a phone to contact anyone, it would not have been good if I was stuck.

Trying to find various airline offices (yes, my flight existed and I was indeed on it) and to stand in the correct various lines at the precise time was a challenge for me. It’s a good thing they speak English!  After much sweating, walking frantically, and a seven hour layover, I managed miraculously to sit in a propeller plane bound for Togo.

Camp Pagala

After a brief overnight stay at the bureau, I was off to Pagala for training with my stagemates.  It was so good to see my pals and to see my counterpart Derrik.  Special thanks to Ryan for making my welcome so awesome!  Seeing him run out to be the first to greet me was so sweet.

During the next three days, we learned how to create a permagarden (a dense and nutrient rich garden that will produce vegetables all year round).  It was a lot of hard work performed by everyone and of course, some not-so-hard work done by me.  We had a lot of good laughs, caught up with one another, and all-around fun.

I ventured out the last night to a bar to celebrate (as you know, not my typical thing).  Bars in Togo are unique.  To order a drink, you ring a bell (they are on every table), a woman arrives to take your order and brings your bottle and a glass.  To pay for your drink before you leave, you return your bottle to the counter so they know what to charge you.

The bathroom is located next to a wall outside and if you need to use it, someone must hold a flashlight for you so you can see and pee standing up, down a hole in the corner of the wall.

The “dance floor” (an undesignated area in the middle of the lowly lit, if at all, bar) is pocketed with holes and rocks so great caution is necessary or you can really hurt yourself should you plant a foot carelessly.  I couldn’t resist dancing to Abba’s “Dancing Queen.”  It’s one of the few songs I recognize and what fun!  We all dance together while the Togolese men observe.  Ryan is a kick to dance with; he’s so animated and it’s pure joy.  And these PC girls can dance up a storm.  Wow!

We sit on plastic chairs or long wooden benches while gazing up at the stars through the hazy dust.  It was lovely to be with my friends but luckily, Lydia is always there for me when I want to head back early.  Thanks Lydia!

SED phase out

The big news of our last day was that our Country Director, Carolina announced that Peace Corps decided to phase out the SED program in Togo.  Our group of eight will be the last volunteers to finish in 2013.

Among the reasons, Peace Corps wants to do three programs (GEE, EAFS, CHAP) better rather than spread its resources in four areas.  All sectors were evaluated and it seemed that SED could be eliminated.  Blah blah blah.  I have my speculations: budget cuts, PC needs to put its resources in countries with more exposure, PC has been in Togo for 50 years, etc.

This decision impacts everyone.  Instead of two groups coming in each year, we will have one.  Instead of approximately 52 new volunteers per year, we will have 36.  Training may occur in July.

My Sokodé post will not be replaced, not that there was ever a guarantee that it would.  But, it makes me sad.

Let’s make lemonade from the lemons, n’est-ce pas?  I’m up to the challenge!

Home Depot

Ryan has named the various boutiques in town with American brands.  There is an Office Depot, Costco, and of course a Home Depot.  These are boutiques that are ½ the size of a small 7-eleven.  All the merchandise sits behind counters so you can’t pick out what you want by yourself.

I needed a light bulb.

Here’s what you do:

1. Walk inside the Home Depot.  Saluer everyone in Kotokoli or French.
2. Find someone behind the counter to help you.  If there are other customers there, good luck.  Tell them you need a light bulb.  Point to the one you want.  They plug it in to make sure it works.  The person writes up a receipt and it feels like it takes forever especially when other customers are all around en masse.
3. Push your way out and take the receipt to another woman, in another part of the boutique and wait in another incoherent queue.  Push your way through.  Pay.  Take your copy of the receipt back to the first person, wherever he is.  Wait again.
4. Give your receipt.  He’ll get your light bulb for you.  Voila!  C’est fini.

To get things done sometimes takes a longer time than expected.  As always, nothing goes as planned in Togo.

Packages

Wow, I had Christmas in January (being that I was laid up in a hotel bed in a lot of pain this past Christmas, this was worth the wait!)

Thanks to everyone for my goodies (Stephen, Antonio, Dale, Arlene, Ericka, Tracy, Kimberly, Lindy, my daddy, and my mommy).  I was really overwhelmed.

I think Kimberly’s “Advent Countdown to Christmas” package was super creative.  One gift per day for 25 days until Christmas.  I am desperately trying to open one per day, but it’s not quite working.  I’m up to day 6.  This is so, so much fun.  Merci beaucoup!

Love and hugs to everyone.  I love you.

Weather report

Temperature inside my home (8:00 am) : 86 degrees.  At 1:00 pm: 96 degrees.  At 9 pm: 90 degrees.  Why did I have to buy a thermometer from REI?  So I can understand what hot season is really like.  It will descend upon me in a few weeks.  Stay tuned!

You can't go home again

“You can’t go home again” has entered American speech to mean that after you have left your country town or provincial backwater city for a sophisticated metropolis, you can’t return to the narrow confines of your previous way of life. – Wikipedia

I’m trying to think of something pithy to write that accurately describes what I’ve been feeling since I’ve returned to the U.S. after my six months in Togo.

How’s this for pithy: I love America.

Sound corny?  Well, it accurately conveys not so much an appreciation of but rather a fête of the possibilities America provides.

I love Target.  I love my car and the freedom it provides.  I love paved roads.  I love my bed.  I love electricity and running water.  I love flushing a toilet.  I love the weather in southern California.  I love the diversity of people and along with that, my anonymity.

I celebrate that we have access to an abundance of choices.  Perhaps a gluttony of choices, but choices nonetheless.  While I despise how we can be materialistic and wasteful we can also choose to abandon the compelling enticements of excess and overindulgence.  Do I really need another stuffed animal?  Do I really need to eat that $200 gourmet meal?  I may still say yes, but I have the choice.

I make different choices in Togo because I have a different menu of options and they provide a newfound joy.

Now, what gets me over-the-top excited is a look-through the grab bin (the used stuff that volunteers leave behind in the Peace Corps volunteer lounge) and finding an old shirt and giving it a second life. 

I am equally as thrilled when I successfully flush my toilet using a bucket of water (it’s a combination of a steady hand, angle of the bucket, and my excellent control of the flow-speed of the water).

I love the way the wind feels in my hair when I am on a motorcycle.

The Togolese men and women I work with and know amaze me with their dedication to the community.  Du courage, indeed.

There’s equally another not-so-pretty side.  I am saddened to see children who can only play with rocks and lines drawn in the sand or an empty can tied to a string. 

I am shocked to hear that people I know don’t have something as simple as an aspirin to lessen the pain of a simple headache.  My med kit would certainly go a long way.

I can’t accurately describe the pitiful road conditions.  Why does the Togo government turn a blind eye to this madness?

Through the looking glass

Joan, you asked me how I’ve changed.  Perhaps what I’ve written is a glimpse into the subtle changes of my thoughts.  I think you are best equipped to enlighten me as to how you perceive the changes?  I can’t be objective.  Where is the mirror of truth?

I knew the Peace Corps experience would transform me forever as a person.  But I don’t know what that will look like.

My viewpoint has a new landscape because I’ve added one more filter for me to see through that has added another perspective, attitude, and dimension.

I can come home again.  I’ve just arrived in a new suit.