Connectivity and the sacrifice
Ok, so I plunkered down the hard cold cash for a Togocel key which will allow me to connect to the internet using this piece of s*&t Acer laptop.
Now, all I have to do is buy phone credit which gives me rental time on the internet. I’m so happy and so, so very lucky to have this key. Thanks to Ryan for getting me this key. They are very hard to come by as it is fairly new technology here in Togo.
The sacrifice? No furniture for me this September *sigh* Ah, the priorities have shifted. I wanted to get a dresser this month but I don’t really need a place to put my clothes. Have been living out of a suitcase the past three months – what’s one more month? I can now connect with all of you! Yay!
Cultural difference – Togo humor
Lots to learn here. Little kids scream (and I do mean, scream) at me to give them a cadeaux (gift of money). I turn to them, pretending to be excited, and I say in French, really? You have a gift for me? Ok, give it to me. And then I hold out my hand. I catch them completely off-guard as I get the deer-in-headlights look. I don’t always have the patience to play this game and I wish I did. Because when a gazillion kids do this to you every day, the game does get old.
The Togolaise sense of humor is none like any other I’ve encountered. Everyone asks for gifts when you’ve returned home, if you have prepared a meal for them, if what you’ve bought from the marche is for them, why don’t you give them your shirt because they like it, and basically, a handout. But I’m told they are joking. Only joking. Testing to see what you would actually do. I just don’t see the humor in it when they are completely serious and will take anything I give them.
Homeless woman
I am officially living like a homeless woman. When I would see the people walking through the streets of Los Angeles, pushing a grocery cart full of what I considered to be garbage, I didn’t understand why. I do now.
I collect and save everything. Nothing is garbage. I now have a variety of empty containers, plastic water bottles, cans, plastic bags, wrappers from stuff you have sent me, the used envelopes from care packages, used flipchart paper, toilet paper rolls, and well, you get the idea. And yes, I have found uses for just about everything. Nothing goes to waste!
My so-called “Togolaise Friends” and potential work
I think everyone wants to be friends with the foreigner, especially one who is an American who looks Chinese (but speaks English? And French? And Kotokoli?) People perceive foreigners as rich, and by their standards, we are, in the United States. But I have to explain that I am a volunteer, I don’t earn a salary, and that I’m basically just as poor as they are. Confuses the heck out of ‘em.
So, anyway, I’m quite the popular gal when I walk on the dirt road up to the rue.
What makes friendship difficult is knowing the intent. I get asked for money all the time. “Will you be giving us money for the projects you work on?” Nope. All you get is the stuff in my little head.
Right now, in order to ensure that any project I work on will be self-sustaining, I plan on doing no projects that require outside funding. Personally, I think it’s better that way. So, thanks to those of you who have offered to raise money in my efforts. Will keep you posted.
I am very, very excited about a possible opportunity to work with another volunteer here in Sokode (the GEE – girls education – amazing woman). There is a group of women who want my assistance with starting a Village Savings and Loan (VSL). Basically, this is a way for women to become empowered with saving money on their own and to take loans. More on this when / if it becomes a reality (in two and a half + months).
I may also have an opportunity to work with this same amazing volunteer with a computer camp here in Sokode. Yeah, I know. Computers. So you know now, how much I must love the Togolese people if I am choosing to work on computers that are not Macs. I believe it will be basic typing skills and stuff.
I met the Chief of my quartier – he lives in the compound next door to mine. He is absolutely amazing. He speaks a little English and is so, so excited to have me here. He gave me 36 eggs as a welcome gift (normally, it would have been a bottle of alcohol, but he was told that I don’t drink). It was so, so sweet and generous.
While the work is important, remember there are three PC goals and the work comprises only one. I am intent on fulfilling all three goals. J
Exercise
While I may have lost all my lovely muscle that I worked up to over the past 8 years at 24-hour Fitness, I am getting my exercise by walking. 3 km one way just to the post office and then 3 km back home, in the natural sauna. Not counting the other kilometers I’m walking from the post office to other destinations (e.g. the marche, the bank, the boutiques, the street food vendors, etc.) All, far, far away. My poor feet are so calloused, dry, beat up, and un-recognizeable. I got a huge blister on the bottom of my right foot from a rock that got stuck there. Didn’t even feel it until I took off my Tevos.
I can’t believe I’m saying this, but I miss that elliptical machine at the gym. And the treadmill and yes, all those machines that used to kill me 3 – 4 times a week.
But my walks here are, for the most part, lovely. I hope to post some photos (I have hundreds now) to show you what I mean. Togo is a beautiful country, with beautiful people, and a beautiful perspective. I am so lucky to be here.
Well, yeah, but…
The living is hard. I know, I’ve said this so many times and in so many ways. It’s just true. I really can only think one day at a time or I’d be headed home on a plane right now. It’s too overwhelming. Have yet to experience Harmattan (when the sand and the dust blow down our way from the Sahara desert) and hot season (where you will find me in a giant bucket in my bathing suit from 10 – 5). None of us can even imagine what hot season will be like.
This is why, I love your letters, letters, letters, (and packages). I am at that post office so many times a week and everyone knows me. I get hugs all the time and instant service. It’s lovely. Perhaps they think it’s funny when I squeal with joy all the time?
Yes, it is just like Christmas when we see something with our name on it. Really. And for those of you who know how I am when I get excited, it’s just like that. Every single time.
Letters and pictures. I am making one wall in my home a collage of your pictures, drawings, and whatever you send me. Lindy, you and the Togo flag are up! (Will someone please, please send me an In-n-Out napkin?) Preferably, slightly used so that I may smell the scent of a burger and fries? I’m not joking.
In-Country Travel
Hmm, where do I begin?
Zeds (moto taxis). Quick, fast, easy. Bargain the price before you jump on. Some of these guys try to rip me off and as soon as I start to walk away, they oblige. Really, I am ok with walking. I’ll save the money but sometimes, in the heat of the sun, I’d prefer a ride. How do I catch one? Well, all I have to do is start walking and I get beeped at constantly and I can wave one down in a second.
Bush-taxi. Once is enough, but sadly, not a reality. Two words: not fun. Two more words: an adventure. Let’s see, other people have described this on their blogs really well, but I’ll make my attempt.
First, you have to get on the rue and find the place where the bush-taxis hang out. You’ll know where that is because everyone is screaming and yelling at you, telling you where they are going and where do you want to go.
Second, you have to try to find one that is almost full because they won’t leave until it is full. Oh, and full does not mean, one person per seat. These innovative people have gutted out these vans and yes, there is a way to load 20-some people plus an equal amount of “stuff” (e.g. goats, chickens, luggage, etc.) on top. I have seen some bush-taxis that are so top heavy, it tilts. One quick turn and that thing will topple over. And I’ve seen that too.
Third, negotiate the price.
Fourth, get in the thing. Ok, try not to get a seat on the side. These things leak and during rainy season, you will get wet. I know. Try not to sit in the front. Oh! I have been in a car (think a normal little car) with two of us sharing the front seat and the driver in his seat. It’s a stick-shift, so figure that one out. And, I’ve been told that it’s normal to have two people sit in the driver’s seat too. So, four people in the front and four to five people in the back. Yep. That’s in a car though, not a bush-taxi.
Back to finding a seat. Don’t get a seat that’s in-between seats. This means your buttocks will be half-on one seat and half off the other and it’s painful. I know, my butt knows, and my back knows.
Fifth, random stops in random places, all the time. Pick up a person here (where will they sit?!!?), drop off a person here, deliver a message here, pick up some more stuff here, stop here for a 20 minute pee-break, and well, you get the idea.
It’s heaven when you arrive at your destination.
A humble thank you
Wow, thanks to all the continued support and abundance of love that continue to blanket me. I am so humbled. I need all of it. I need every single word you write, every single hug you send, and every single happy thought and words of laughter. Thank you.
Oh, and um, feeling mighty guilty of the amount of money you are spending. I hope the ROI is good.
The packages are awesome. And I do mean awesome.
I think though that some were “lost” in the transition from Tsevie to Lome to Sokode. I’m not exactly sure as I have no idea who sent what and when (except the one package from my mom, which sadly, hasn’t arrived).
The dust has settled, finally, on the goodies for packages. My biggest apologies to those of you I wrote with insane requests and a hodge podge of random thoughts and of countless amounts of things I wanted. I was not of sound mind and I think you knew that (thank goodness). Not sure I am now, but I do believe I am thinking more clearly. I am able to update my “Staying Connected” tab with info on what I desperately need and want.
As always, I am sending you hugs and love (ignore the dirt and sweat and ahem, smell). If you continue to do all that you are doing, I may actually have to stay here in Togo J
No comments:
Post a Comment